From Milan to Manhattan

ON A WARM AND BREEZY NIGHT IN MANHATTAN, AN ITALIAN ARTIST TOLD ME, "EVERYTHING IS Possible. Either you want to do it or you don't." I sipped my red wine, lusted over my new dark-chocolate tresses, and found myself admiring not just a hairdresser, but a true artist: Milan-raised beautician, Manhattan socialite, artist, art director, and hair expert Federico Calce.
Calce first began his journey in Milan as a young boy who admired the talent of his beautician brother. He picked up on every technique, later adding his own dollop of style to the likes of tasteful New Yorkers. "My brother taught me how to cut hair," Calce admits. "He owns a number of beauty salons in Italy. Since I was six years old I always said I wanted to be like him and do the same job he does."
"My brother is still a famous hair dresser in Italy and owns 140 franchises and twenty-eight beauty salons all over Italy. So it was my dream to be like him. I worked with him for twelve years and then decided I wanted to be me, because everyone kept saying, 'You're the brother,' so I moved to New York and started my own career." Calce quickly became a New York prodigy, producing a service in which he viewed people as his artistic endeavors oi endless possibilities.
When Calce first moved to Manhattan, he was hired as the Art Director for Bergdorf Goodman where he worked on fashion shows for Oscar De La Renta, Valentino, and Fendi, to name a few. "I directed everything," he explains. "For example, if we were doing a fashion show. I would create the entire first look. From what they were wearing, I would determine what the hair should look like, and makeup coloration." After five years he decided to branch off on his own and opened Federico Salon on 55th Street and 5th Avenue, where he stayed for ten years before moving the salon to 57th Street (between Madison and Park Avenues). "We have been at this location for four years now, still doing the fashion shows, award shows and photo shoots."
During his time at Bergdorf, Calce worked on several movies including Batman, When Harry Met Sally, and The Pink Cadillac, among others. As a well-respected hair stylist, Calce works backstage at Fashion Week every year, but he explains the difference between his salon and working in fashion. 'Yes, we do fashion, but the salon is a little different. When I work with a real client I try to really understand what they need. I have to talk with them and hear the sound of their voice. If they have a problem with the husband, boyfriend, if it's about the job, then they need a certain look. That is why we work one on one. We don't work as a manufacturer, as if 'this is the look and this is what we are doing.' We do that for fashion magazines and fashion week - we impose the look that is needed - but when you work one on one, you have to understand the need of the person."
"A Beautiful Approach" Calce has
been cutting, styling, and coloring hair for a long time, but when asked if he will ever tire of it, he quickly replied, "No, I love it! You're talking about women, women is beauty I love women. How could I be tired of women? It is something that is impossible!" His passion for applying artistic beauty to a person is palpable. I look down at my watch to discover that it's 9:00 p.m., and there is still a customer in his salon getting a haircut and color correction. "I love it," he reiterates.
It's been over twenty-five years, and the same customers still count on Calce to achieve the look they desire. Although Calce has male and female clients, his passion lies in working with women. "We always like to change the look, because to do the same look every time gets boring. I love women; when I see women, I see beauty. It's good for the husband or boyfriend too - to see something different, a new look. It keeps things exciting," he explains.
As I sat on the plush chairs in the waiting room, it became evident that customers hold a loyal trust in Calce and are treated with the utmost service. When first walking into Federico Salon, the customer is immediately greeted with a robe and offered a cup of espresso or a glass of wine. He continues, "It's good to change a woman's beauty every so often. To me, there is no such thing as an ugly woman - everyone is beautiful. It's just a matter of pulling out that beauty."
"The Mechanics" One of the most intriguing machines in Federico Salon is the Jesset-ter, a massive tube-like hair dryer that creates a natural and voluminous look. Invented by Calce himself, the Jessetter is a product of popular demana from his customers.
"We always try to create new tools, new techniques, for color and drying hair. Especially New York women tend to abuse their hair with artificial products. So, I came up with a new concept with how to dry hair in a healthy way. We don't use much of blow dry with brush anymore; we use this machine, called Just Setter. I invented it; in July we are distributing all over the West Coast. It feels very natural with a lot of body. You can use it to make hair curly or straight. It works unbelievably!"
"NO Split EndS AbOUt It" IsawCalce's true artistic outlook when I asked if he con-sidered hair styling an art. "Oh, it is!" he an-swered. "I consider myself an artist. I am not just a hairdresser; I am an artist. One hundred percent!"
Calce has always been confident in his ability to visualize beauty and apply it to a person. "To do hair, it is. I knew where I came from, and I knew what I wanted. It is not easy to achieve, but this was my goal. You know, America - it's a dream! Everything is possible,"
As I continued to get to know Calce, I found out that hair art is not his only artistic ability. He is also a secret sculptor. "I make everything from eagles, women, fish, ducks... anything! I keep them at home down in my basement. A lot of people tell me I should do an exhibition or sell, but that's not for rne. I do it just for myself."
Before leaving, as a former blonde and current brunette, I had to ask, "If you had to pick: blonde or brunette?" Calce's response was no surprise: "I love women, it doesn't matter. Woman is woman, it's beauty, it's my passion, it's everything." And with a smile and a bacio, straight from Milan, I exited Federico's Salon with a whole new look.

INS&OUTS, Volume II, Issue 02

By Stephanie Remige